How to perfectly adjust the neck of a guitar and the string action

The distance between the strings and the fretboard is a crucial factor in guitar playing. If the strings are too far from the fretboard, you’ll need to apply more force when pressing down, and the risk of going out of tune increases because the strings are excessively stretched when pressed. Conversely, if the strings are too close, we risk producing buzzing sounds or, in the worst case, they might not sound at all when pressed. Remember: a little buzzing is allowed – it adds character to the music! :)

Another important aspect is the tone. A string that sits slightly further from the fretboard can vibrate more freely, while a string that is too close may dampen its vibrations as it lightly strikes other frets when played. Therefore, the string action has a direct impact on the sound of your guitar.

As in many aspects of life, it's essential to find a healthy compromise here: not too high, not too low. Guitarists with a strong picking style can safely set their strings a bit higher, while those with a gentle fingerpicking style might prefer a lower action. When playing with a lot of gain, you can afford a lower string action, as distortion often masks subtle buzzing. However, for lovers of clean tones, a low action can quickly become bothersome, as it simply sounds clearer when you don’t push everything to the absolute limit.

There are three key points to consider when adjusting the neck and string position:

1. Truss Rod (Neck Relief)
Start with the neck, which must be absolutely straight – anything else would just be damage control! The curvature of the neck primarily affects the string action in the middle. Ideally, the neck should be perfectly straight; a slight forward bow is acceptable, but a back bow is a no-go. You adjust the neck by turning the truss rod – use the accompanying key for this. For electric guitars, the adjustment screw is usually located at the headstock; for older Strat and Tele models, it's often found at the neck-body joint. Work in small increments. As a practical test: press down the 1st and the last fret simultaneously. If there’s still about the thickness of a piece of paper between the strings and the neck in the middle, you’re perfect!

2. Nut
The next step is the nut. If the distance here is too high, pressing down on the 1st fret becomes a challenge. You could completely sand down the nut, but usually, it's sufficient to carefully work on the grooves with appropriate nut files. Be extremely cautious: too much removal is irreversible! A tip: press the string at the 3rd fret. If there’s still a thick piece of paper's width of air between the string and the fret in the 1st fret, the groove in the nut is ideal. However, grooves that are filed too deep lead to buzzing on open strings. If you lack the proper tools or are unsure, leave it alone and let a professional handle it. The guitar builder in your area will gladly take care of this work for a small fee.

3. Bridge / Saddle
The adjustment of the bridge affects the entire string action across the fretboard, especially noticeable behind the 12th fret. If you play in higher positions and the buzzing is excessive, you need to adjust the bridge. For LP-style guitars, this can be easily done using two screws on the bridge. Strat-style guitars have individual saddles for each string that you can fine-tune. For acoustic guitars, you'll need to remove the bridge saddle and possibly shave it down a bit. If you're inexperienced in this, it's advisable to consult a professional.